Sushibar
If you think speakeasies only exist for the liquor industry, think again. This restaurant has all of the mystique of an illicit watering hole, yet it has an alluring, secret, unique ingredient on its menu: sushi. But does the food live up to the mysterious hype? Read on to find out.
Ring my bell
It's not your average entrance to a night on the town. Don't expect to walk right into SushiBar LA. First, it’s located in a strip mall in Encino. You must ring the doorbell and check in before you enter into the bar to enjoy a greeting with a citrusy welcome cocktail. As soon as you sip it, you know there's no turning back.
When it's time to be seated, you'll be swept away on an adventure. First, you're led through the kitchen of the restaurant next door, out the back door, and around the corner, onto an outside balcony. Knock again, and you're in. Immediately, a trio of men who will be serving up your meal as well as the entertainment that rounds out the experience: two chefs and a mixologist.
Once you get inside, there are two rooms used for alternate seating times. Make sure you’ve cleared your schedule; the whole experience takes just over two hours.
Oh-my-what?
The Omakase is an interactive experience. Let's hope you like the people around you because you're going to get to know them by the end of the meal. During the evening, you'll be entertained by a full-on experiential adventure. The chefs and mixologist tell jokes and stories throughout the dinner, and offer the opportunity to ask any questions you might have:
Where is the fish from?
Why do you source this particular fish as farm-raised vs. fresh?
What is the best uni you can buy?
It’s a very inviting experience, not pretentious at all, despite the starting price tag of $125+ tax and tip.
Not quite revolutionary
Don't get me wrong, everything is delicious, but this is an Omakase for beginners. I'd recommend people who are new to sushi to try this. Standard offerings of Bluefin tuna with caviar, Russian crab with mustard seeds, seared bone marrow, and Santa Barbara uni feature excellent preparation. Though I'd consider them top-notch in their class, they're a bit pedestrian to what you'll find at most high-end sushi restaurants.
In their defense, I think this is their goal: to be approachable and able to cater to the masses (as least their palate, because seating is limited to 10 people per time slot and not everyone can afford the prices).
And the winner is…Drinks!
I was lucky to try several of the pairings, and the mixologist’s skills blew me away. He did a fantastic job with the pairings and opened my eyes to some great Sake, which I had never really been a fan of before dining here.
A humble tip
I wish the restaurant took some risks to serve unique cuts that you might not easily find in the US. Perhaps a treat of jellyfish or torched barracuda? At the very least, they could get more creative with the sauces/pairings: sweet shrimp with yuzu cream, or an oyster with yamamomo granita and quail egg yolk. Just sayin’.
Overall, I’d give it four stars. SushiBar LA is a great introductory Omakase experience and a good option for sushi for beginners. It was entertaining and delicious; however, I was disappointed in the fish selection and lack of creativity. More experienced sushi buffs should opt for more adventurous options in the city.
