Lula Drake Wine Parlour

 
 

The Best Restaurant in Columbia is Actually an Elevated Wine Bar: An Inside Look at Lula Drake

The best restaurant in Columbia, SC isn't a traditional steakhouse or a white-tablecloth establishment. It’s a cozy, eccentric, and historic wine bar sitting right in the heart of downtown at 1635 Main Street.

It’s called Lula Drake Wine Parlour, and it recently made city history by taking home Columbia’s first-ever James Beard Award in the Outstanding Wine and Other Beverages Program category.

Stepping inside feels like entering another era, thanks to owner and Certified Sommelier Tim Gardner and Chefs Rachael Harrison and Ashley Bundrick. They have successfully paired a world-class, globally sourced wine program with a brilliant, tightly curated food menu. The result is a space that is forward-thinking and stylish, yet completely approachable and welcoming.

Here is the story behind the name, the vibe, and exactly what you need to order for the ultimate pairing experience.

The History and the Vibe: Uncovering Lula Drake

The name and inspiration for the wine parlour came from a fascinating piece of local history. While exploring the building's basement, the owners uncovered an old trunk dating back to the early 1920s. Inside, they found the belongings and a gold-embossed calling card of a woman named Lula Drake.

As it turned out, Drake was a true trailblazer—a woman who successfully ran her own hat shop in a business world entirely dominated by men. She went by "Drake" instead of Lula, preferred dark colors, and was a beautifully complex iconoclast.

Today, the parlour honors her spirit. Tim Gardner has lavishly decorated the space in warm, dark tones that evoke a vintage, romantic atmosphere. It is wonderfully quaint, with limited seating split between a gorgeous bar and a few comfortable small tables. It feels incredibly intimate and cozy—the perfect environment for a relaxing evening of great conversation.

The Wine & Drink Program: From Unlikely Origins to Expert Cocktails

The beverage list at Lula Drake is famously eccentric. Gardner curates a rotating selection of wines from all over the world, often highlighting unexpected regions like the Bekaa Valley in Lebanon or Valais in Switzerland. Every single bottle or glass comes with a description saturated with personality from Gardner himself. And every wine I have tried there is fantastic!

But even though it’s a wine bar at its core, you absolutely shouldn't sleep on their cocktail program:

  • The Dirty Martini: A classic vodka martini that is served very dirty. It has a fantastic, savory bite that feels botanical rather than harsh or astringent.

  • Paper Plane: A bright, perfectly balanced combination of bourbon, Aperol, amaro, and fresh lemon juice.

  • Espresso Martini: Hands down the best in town. It leans delightfully dark and rich rather than overly milky, featuring a bitter-yet-balanced profile and a beautiful, creamy foam top.

(Note: For beer lovers, they also keep an expansive stash of more than 40 bottled beer options on hand.)

The Food: Creative Dinner Gems & Pro-Tip Pairings

Chefs Rachael Harrison and Ashley Bundrick have crafted a shifting menu of small plates designed to evolve alongside the wine list. While the menu changes frequently to capture seasonal flavors, there are a few absolute icons on this menu you should look out for.

The Ultimate Menu Hack: Cacio e Pepe & KFC

If you want to experience the absolute best of Lula Drake, you have to order these two dishes together. It’s a pro tip passed straight from the kitchen:

  • Cacio e Pepe: This isn’t your standard pasta. It’s made with house-made gnudi that are incredibly pillowy, decadent, and insanely cheesy. It is so rich you likely won't finish it alone, making it the ultimate sharing dish.

  • Yangnyeom “KFC” (Korean Fried Chicken): This gluten-free dish features sweet, spicy, hot, and tangy chicken that stays remarkably crispy while remaining juicy on the inside and smothered in sauce. This might be the best thing on the menu - although it’s a toss up between the KFC and the Cacio e Pepe.

  • Pro Tip: Order both. Eat a bite of the crispy, tangy KFC at the same time as the pillowy, rich Cacio e Pepe. The sweet and sharp heat of the chicken perfectly cuts through the heavy richness of the cheese. The combination is completely out of this world.

Other Standout Plates

  • Vegan Paccheri Pasta: An incredible plant-based dish featuring large paccheri tubes tossed in a savory, comforting carrot miso sauce with fresh spinach and peas. It's topped with lemon Aleppo breadcrumbs for a bright crunch and a hint of background heat.

  • Sherry Shrimp: Perfectly cooked, juicy shrimp from the Lowcountry Shellfish Co., seared in a rich garlic butter sauce spiked with sherry and shallots. Served with toasted baguette points to soak up all the acidic, buttery goodness.

  • The Charcuterie Boards: Perfect for nibbling, you can opt for just meats, just cheeses, or a custom mix. A standout favorite features a sharp cheddar paired with nuts, crackers, fruit, and house-marinated olives dressed in citrus, olive oil, and garlic.

  • Capa Negra Jamón Iberico: Thinly sliced Capa Negra Jamón Ibérico—a premium ham sourced from wild, acorn-fed Spanish pigs—is elegantly plated for sharing. I order it with the cheese board, but it pairs very well with the cacio e pepe too.

The Grand Finale: Dessert Redefined

When it's time for dessert, the kitchen keeps the creativity going strong with two polar-opposite, equally spectacular options:

  • The Chocolate Tart: For the sweet tooth. It features a rich chocolate cookie crust filled with a dense, creamy, fudgy chocolate ganache, all balanced by a generous sprinkle of flaky sea salt.

  • Dessert Cheese and Charcuterie: For those who prefer a savory finish. This clever board plays with sweet-and-savory flavor illusions, featuring a rich mole salami laced with chocolate alongside Norwegian Brunost cheese, which naturally tastes like deeply caramelized milk.

The Verdict

Lula Drake Wine Parlour earned its James Beard Award by daring to be different, choosing exceptional quality and approachability over pretension. By pairing world-class wine expertise with an absolute powerhouse kitchen, they have created something entirely unmatched. They took the ordinary and made it extraordinary through pure creativity. Whether you're a lifelong connoisseur or someone who "isn't a wine person," the hospitality here makes you feel right at home. It is a legendary Soda City staple that completely elevates the Main Street experience. Go for the world-class wine list, order the Cacio e Pepe and KFC combo, and experience the best restaurant in town.

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